Los Molinos: a valley of light in the mountains

Los Molinos

The municipality of Los Molinos lies in the Sierra de Guadarrama, 52 kilometres from Madrid, with direct access to the Sierra de Guadarrama National Park. The village takes its name from the old watermills—some of whose remains can still be seen today. Its setting endows Los Molinos with outstanding natural beauty, and the area is rich in both animal and plant life.

History

The existence of historic routes crossing the mountains helped foster the development of settlements within what is now the municipal area of Los Molinos. In particular, historians suggest that the Roman road crossing the Puerto de la Fuenfría passed through the site where the village was later established.

There is some debate about the settlement’s origins. Some historians argue for an Arab origin, citing the supposed presence of an Arab fortress in the area and the fact that certain estate place-names appear to derive from Arabic, such as Las Atalayas.

What seems more certain, however, is that Los Molinos owes its existence to the medieval repopulation of the province of Madrid in the 11th century, following the Reconquista. The territory was among those disputed for long periods by Madrid and Segovia, and it also appears on the list of localities forming part of the Real de Manzanares, the administrative grouping created by Alfonso X “the Wise” to address these tensions.

Whatever the origins of its settlers, surface finds allow Los Molinos to be placed among the so-called Poblados de Sierra—mountain villages whose establishment took place in the 13th century. Most of these early inhabitants were livestock farmers. The village is also thought to have had a long-standing milling tradition, given the number of water-powered installations used to produce flour.

The history of Los Molinos in the 16th century is largely unknown, as references to the village tend to appear only within accounts relating to neighbouring Guadarrama. Even so, it is believed to be during this period that the settlement gradually consolidated around a more stable population centre.

In the following century, the 17th, Los Molinos gained the status of villa in 1666, by Royal Decree of Queen Mariana of Austria, regent for Charles II.

The 18th century brought recovery. The previous period had been critical for population density: war, plague and other hardships reduced the village from 87 households in 1591 to just 20 in 1713. Recovery was not merely demographic—several of Los Molinos’ principal buildings were constructed during this century, including the Hermitage of San José (1737).

The first detailed figures come from the Cadastre of Ensenada (1751). The village is recorded as having 70 households, with a tavern, three inns, a butcher’s and a small grocery. The main livelihood was agriculture, ranked in importance as cereals, flax and vegetables—with cereal cultivation particularly significant, since flour production was the most common activity. Indeed, the village’s name is linked to a flour enterprise located in 1751 on the banks of the Guadarrama River, which operated seven flour mills. Livestock farming was also important and included oxen, cows, mares, colts, horses, donkeys, sheep and rams, alongside beekeeping.

By 1768, the population had risen to 332 inhabitants. At that time the village was also an important hunting area, and plaques still survive marking boundaries with inscriptions such as “Bedado de Caza Menor. Año de 1793” (“Reserved for small-game hunting. Year 1793”). These plaques also bore the letter “R”, indicating royal ownership—in this case, under Charles IV.

At the end of the 18th century, a new industry arrived: ice production. Ice was collected from Sierra snow pits (neveros), cut, and transported in blocks to Madrid. Trade expanded to such an extent that the capital came to depend on Los Molinos for this commodity.

The 19th-century disentailments (desamortizaciones) triggered a general agricultural crisis across the region. Even so, around this time there was a relative improvement in farming in the villages of the Sierra de Guadarrama, with new crops such as potatoes, which supported recovery. After the disentailments, much land in Los Molinos passed into private hands, yet the impact was not as catastrophic as elsewhere, as former owners continued to benefit. There were, however, changes in cultivation patterns, and irrigated farming increased considerably.

With the arrival of the railway, Los Molinos entered a period of development—both in infrastructure and population. In the early 20th century it began to establish itself as a summer retreat, and the healthy climate and reputation as a “salubrious” area encouraged the construction of rest homes and charitable institutions: hospitals, residences, and more.

To gauge the scale of tourism growth, it is enough to note that by mid-century Los Molinos had more than 800 buildings, 600 of them summer hotels. In 1962, the village became a place of pilgrimage with the first romería to the Hermitage of the Virgin of El Espino, and visitor numbers continued to rise. Today, Los Molinos is among the most visited villages in the Madrid mountains, and much of its economy is essentially linked to tourism.

Culture

Religious elements are the most widespread monuments of Los Molinos. There are numerous chapels and parishes, and the variety of architectural styles stands out. Buildings of various ages can be seen, from Renaissance to Herrerian and to modern times.

Spain Square (Plaza de España)

A broad, open square where the Town Hall stands. At its centre is a wrought-iron streetlamp with nine arms.

Julio Escobar House Museum

Calle Concejo, 31.

It is an exhibition centre for the legacy of Julio Escobar. Visitors can see a collection of furniture, fans, antique ink and other items.

Visiting hours:

Wednesday to Sunday: 19:00–21:00
Saturdays and Sundays: 12:00–14:00 and 19:00–21:00
Group visits outside these hours can be arranged by calling the Town Hall on +34 91 855 10 13.

Chapel of San José

Dating from 1737. It originally stood in the old cemetery (no longer used from 1940, when the new cemetery at Los Llanos was begun). The chapel is neo-classical with Herrerian influence and is now surrounded by a park called Doctor Rodríguez Padilla.

Chapel of El Carmen

Built in 1929 on land granted by the Town Hall. Constructed in masonry with hydraulic mortar, with a wooden roof structure covered in flat tiles.

Fuente del León (Lion Fountain)

A striking, symmetrical stone fountain. Each side features a basin into which water flows from two spouts. The fountain is crowned by a lion statue, which gives it its name.

Parish Church of the Immaculate Conception (Purísima Concepción)

A Renaissance church with Escorial-style influences, dating from 1570. It has a single Latin-cross nave and an external portico, barrel vaulting, and a wrought-iron grille on the main doorway dated 1768. Inside is an 18th-century altarpiece in Baroque, gilded and polychrome wood.

Festivals and traditions

The popular leisure activities in Los Molinos are divided based on brotherhoods. Each brotherhood has its Virgin or saint to praise to and its particular feast to honour them. Each organises the festival in its own way, but they all have in common the tradition and devotion to the saints.

• Brotherhood of San Sebastián: festivities begin the night before the official day (20 January), at midnight, with Vespers in the parish church and songs for the blessed souls, accompanied by dulzaina and drum.

• Brotherhood of San José: begins on 18 March with a three-day devotion (triduum). 19 March, St Joseph’s Day, is the main day, with Mass, a procession through the streets, and a communal meal for members.

• Brotherhood of Mary: celebrated on Friday of Sorrows, centred on Mass and a procession.

• Brotherhood of San José – Cristo de la Buena Muerte: the Cristo de la Buena Muerte is the patron of Los Molinos. On 14 September, religious ceremonies are held, including Mass and a procession honouring the image, carried through the village streets.

Nature

Los Molinos is home to remarkably varied and rich plant life, including scrub species such as broom, willow scrub, and blackthorn, alongside trees such as poplar, oak, holm oak, and several species of pine. The local fauna is equally notable: wild boar, rabbits, roe deer, trout, eagles, rooks, storks and vultures can all be observed—often while enjoying the village’s many walking routes.